Ambiente UFH Products & Systems – Frequently Asked Questions

A: This is down to the screeder, but it can be normal or flowing screed.

A:Yes. The design of the board requires that the pipework be completely encapsulated for proper heat distribution. Without this, there will be reduced output, hot and cold patches, and the floor finish will be contacting the board underneath making clicking noises.

A:No. The board is pre-primed so should not need another primer layer, unless it has been installed for a while and is dirty or dusty.

A:Not advised. Ambideck is designed to use levelling compound/latex as efficient heat distribution. Other coverings can be used but this will reduce output. Top boards can be glued on or even screwed down depending on the subfloor underneath.

A:Most floor/tile adhesive that is solvent free, elastic, flexible, and UFH compatible will work with AmbiDeck, but the advised installing method is to use AmbiBond.

A:Yes. As they are XPS, like an insulation board, they need to be fixed in order for there to be no flex or movement so as to not damage the pipe work.

A: The depth of the board is 20mm, and the thermal conductivity is 0.031 W/mK so the U-value is 0.031/0.02=1.55 W/m²K.

A:No. It is assumed that the panels would be installed onto a floor that is within normal parameters (SR2), but just as flat as possible.

A:Not advised, but yes. We recommend that on to a concrete subfloor tile adhesive be used or to a timber subfloor, screws and washers. The subfloor is required to be as flat as possible, to keep an even floor.

A:Any floor coverings can be used. Tiles would just require tile adhesive. Other coverings would need a minimum of 3-6mm of AmbiFibre levelling compound.

A:We do not stipulate exactly which adhesive can be used, but most floor adhesives can be used as long as it is flat.

A:Yes they can, as long as it is flat and tile adhesive is used. AmbiBond could also be used as it has good expansive properties.

A:This is not advised as the membrane can slip and move around, making the floor unstable and possibly crack. If the membrane is adhered down, this would be advised if the membrane is necessary.

A:The boards have a 150mm pipe spacing.

A: Yes. The design of the board requires that the pipework be completely encapsulated for proper heat distribution. Without this, there will be reduced output, hot and cold patches, and the floor finish will be contacting the board underneath making clicking noises.

A: No. The board is pre-primed so should not need another primer layer, unless it has been installed for a while and is dirty or dusty.

A: Not advised. Ambideck is designed to use levelling compound/latex as efficient heat distribution. Other coverings can be used but this will reduce output. Top boards can be glued on or even screwed down depending on the subfloor underneath.

A: Most floor/tile adhesive will work with AmbiDeck, but the advised installing method is to first use at least a 6mm layer of AmbiFibre for proper heat distribution.

A:No. It is assumed that the panels would be installed onto a floor that is within normal parameters (SR2), but just as flat as possible.

A:Not advised, but yes. We recommend that on to a concrete subfloor tile adhesive be used or to a timber subfloor, screws and washers. The subfloor is required to be as flat as possible, to keep an even floor.

A:Any floor coverings can be used. Tiles would just require tile adhesive. Other coverings would need a minimum of 3-6mm of AmbiFibre levelling compound.

A:We do not stipulate exactly which adhesive can be used, but most floor adhesives can be used as long as it is flat.

A:Yes they can, as long as it is flat and tile adhesive is used. AmbiBond could also be used as it has good expansive properties.

A:The boards have a 150mm pipe spacing.

A: The flow bar serves to distribute heated water from the heat source (e.g., boiler, heat pump) to each individual heating loop in the system.

A: The return bar collects the cooler water that has circulated through the heating loops and directs it back to the heat source to be reheated.

A: Integrated flow meters are devices built into the flow manifold that allow you to monitor the rate at which hot water is flowing through each individual heating loop. This enables you to adjust the flow in each loop to achieve balanced heat distribution throughout the system.

A: Actuators, also known as valves, are devices that control the amount of water flow through each individual heating loop connected to the manifold. They can be manual, requiring physical adjustment, or automated, responding to signals from room thermostats or a central control system to regulate temperature in different zones.

A: Air vents remove trapped air from the heating system, which can cause cold spots and reduce efficiency. They can be manual or automatic.

A: Isolation valves allow you to shut off the water flow to individual heating loops without having to shut down the entire heating system. This is particularly useful for maintenance, repairs, or when a specific loop is not needed.

A: The drain/fill valve simplifies the process of draining water from the heating system for maintenance or adjustments and refilling it afterwards.

A: A pressure gauge monitors system pressure for safety and optimal operation. While sometimes optional, it is strongly recommended for early leak detection and ensuring the system operates within the optimal pressure range.

A: This is the date of manufacture, in order to check the age of the manifold.

A: Not advised. The paste can end up in the flow regulators and cause sticking or jamming.

A:Between 4-6 bar or pressure is advised when pressure testing.

A: Please see graph below:

A: Opt for high-grade stainless steel for better corrosion resistance and longevity, especially in underfloor heating where access is limited after installation.

A: Choose a manifold with the appropriate number of connections (ports) to match the number of loops in your installation. Typically, 1 x loop of 12mm pipe covers 14m² and 16mm covers 18m² of floor area. E.g., if a room is 21m² it would contain 2 x loops of UFH pipework, and this means two ports on the manifold. Most manifolds range from 2 to 12 ports.

A: Yes. Verify that the manifold is compatible with the type and connection of the actuators or valves you intend to use. Different brands may use different connectors; Ambiente uses M30 thread actuators.

A: Ensure the manifold is designed to work with your chosen heat source (boiler, heat pump, etc.), considering factors like flow rate and operating temperature.

A: Select a manifold that is designed for straightforward installation and has easily accessible components for regular maintenance and potential replacement of parts.

A: Install the manifold in an accessible location that is close to both the heat source and the heating loops. Adequate space around the manifold is essential for installation, ongoing maintenance, and adjustments.

A: Secure the manifold firmly on brackets, the bottom of the manifold should be a minimum of 400mm off the floor or within a dedicated cabinet to provide proper support and ensure it is correctly aligned.

A: Always use the fittings recommended by the manifold manufacturer and ensure that all connections are tightened properly to prevent leaks. Ambiente products use ‘Euroconus’ type fittings where you have a nut, olive, and eurocone as these are the most reliable connection types available. It’s a good practice to pressure test the system before covering the pipes.

A: Pressure testing after installation helps to identify and rectify any leaks in the pipe connections before the system is fully operational or concealed.

A: Balancing is the process of adjusting the flow rate in each heating loop to ensure that heat is distributed evenly throughout all zones. This is typically achieved by using the integrated flow meters on the flow manifold to set the desired flow rate for each loop.

A:

• Periodic Inspections: Regularly check all manifold components for leaks, corrosion, or any signs of damage.
• Routine Air Bleeding: Bleed any trapped air from the system periodically to maintain efficient operation.
• Pressure Checks: Monitor the system pressure and adjust as needed to stay within the optimal range.
• Actuator Testing: Periodically test and recalibrate actuators to ensure they respond accurately to temperature changes.
• Cleaning: Inspect the manifold for any mineral buildup or debris and clean it according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

A: Underfloor heating systems typically operate at lower water temperatures compared to radiator systems, often between 30-50°C (86-122°F). The exact temperature will depend on factors like the heat loss of the building, floor construction, and desired room temperature.

A: By allowing for precise control of water flow to different zones, the manifold helps optimise heat output and prevent overheating in certain areas. When used with thermostatic controls and actuators, it ensures energy is only used where and when needed, contributing to lower heating bills.

A: Yes, having a manifold with spare ports makes future expansion of your underfloor heating system much easier. You can connect new heating loops to the unused ports without needing to replace the entire manifold.

A: It’s generally recommended to bleed the system after initial installation and during the first few heating cycles as trapped air can accumulate.

A: Manifolds are designed to work with specific sizes and types of heating pipes (e.g., PEX, PERT). You must use the correct fittings and ensure compatibility between the manifold connections and your chosen pipework to prevent leaks and ensure a secure connection.

A: Depending on the complexity and layout of your system, you might need multiple manifolds to manage different heating zones effectively. Typically, each manifold serves one location and supports up to 14 loops (28 pipes total, including supply and return). To avoid excessive heat build-up from transit pipework, it’s usually best to place additional manifolds in separate locations.

A: Connecting a secondary heat source requires careful planning and system design. The manifold itself might not be the direct connection point, but the overall system needs to be configured to integrate the additional heat source appropriately, often involving additional valves and controls. Consult with a heating professional for such integrations.

A: Check where you are reading the temperature from on the dial, as it should to be read from where the arrow is pointing (which is not usually at the front). Otherwise, it could likely mean that the mixing valve is not mixing flow and return. The pressure is too high from the pump at the heat source, or the mixing pump needs to be increased to force more cooler water through or increase the setting on the bypass valve to reduce the pressure going to the manifold pump.

A: Important safety features include a robust construction (preferably stainless steel), reliable connections to prevent leaks, a pressure relief valve to prevent over-pressurization, and potentially thermal actuators with safety shut-off functions.

A: Yes. The red tags are temporary to open the valve to make screwing and tightening the head on easier.

A: The minimum level is 3mm and the maximum is 40mm.

A: Yes, this is advised. AmbiFibre is designed with proper heat distribution in mind and will work perfectly with AmbiDeck and the lozenges.

A: AmbiFibre can be walked on after 90 minutes, tiled on top of after 2 hours, and resilient floor coverings after 3 hours. It will be set after 10 days, and completely dry a little after that.

A: You should wait at least 10 days before putting any heat into the system. If it is heated before then, it could cause moisture to escape unevenly resulting in cracks or a delaminated surface.

A: Yes. It is advisable to start at a lower temperature and increase by 0.5 or 1 degree per day. If the system is turned on at a higher temperature straight away, it could shock the compound and cause damage or cracks.

A: The bend radius is approx. 5x16mm=80mm or 160mm diameter.

A: Usually, the setting out of the box will be sufficient. In order to meet the flow levels that your design requires this can be changed. We suggest starting with CPI (Constant Pressure I) and then building up to level III if required.

A: No. UFH needs water around 40-50 degrees and the water temperature is lower coming from a heat pump. A mixing pump would only be required if your water temperature were higher coming from a boiler for central heating (usually 65-70 degrees).

A: Firstly, check where you are reading the temperature from on the mixing valve dial, as it needs to be read from where the arrow is pointing (which is not usually at the front). Otherwise, it could likely mean that the mixing valve is not mixing flow and return. The pressure could be too high from the pump at the heat source, the mixing pump needs to be increased to force more cooler water through or the setting on the bypass valve could be increased in order to reduce the pressure going to the manifold pump.

A:This depends on the type of flooring being installed, but typically, LVT manufacturers will specify the recommended compound and depth. For tiles and LVT, it’s important to ensure that the Tile Top board is used instead of the MDF board.

A:This has not been tested, the performance could be limited. There is a risk of condensation if reaching the dew point, as JoFloor panels are a chipboard, moisture could cause issues.

A:No. As long as the subfloor is flat. If the subfloor cannot be fixed to, then the LoFloor can be floated. The base boards are staggered in order to keep rigidity.

A:No. They are staggered abd will butt together.

A: No. The backplates are not interchangeable as they have different functions.

A: Typical height is 1200mm, or between 450-1000mm for limited mobility or disabled users.

A:No. This is only used for heating.

A:No, this feature isn’t currently available.

A:No. It requires to be wired into the wiring centre.

A: No. The backplates are not interchangeable as they have different functions.

A: Typical height is 1200mm, or between 450-1000mm for limited mobility or disabled users.

A:No. This is only used for heating.

A:No, this feature isn’t currently available.

A:No. It requires to be wired into the wiring centre.

A: You should allow 25-100mm gap between the plates as to avoid any rubbing or damage to the plate or pipe.

A: There has been a fault with some UB10s where the switching does not occur, so everything can be wired in correctly but still does not turn the system on. This would require a replacement.

A: This is a link wire. It should stay on the board if you are not using a local zone valve, such as if it is being controlled by the heat source. If you have a local zone valve, this link can be removed, and the Or and Gr from the valve should be wired in.

A: Yes. This is to let the boiler know when the UFH requires hot water.

A: Yes. This would be possible, but untested currently.

A: Usually, yes. A zone valve should be used in order to allow the wiring centre to control if water is being let into the system. You may not need this if it is being controlled by the heat source such as a heat pump.

A: There has been a fault with some UB10s where the switching does not occur, so everything can be wired in correctly but still does not turn the system on. This would require a replacement.

A: This is a link wire. It should stay on the board if you are not using a local zone valve, such as if it is being controlled by the heat source. If you have a local zone valve, this link can be removed, and the Or and Gr from the valve should be wired in.

A: Yes. This is to let the boiler know when the UFH requires hot water.

A: The live from the boiler should run to the COM terminal, and the switched live should run back out of the NO.

A:Yes. This would be possible, but untested currently.

A:Typical 1.5mm 3 core + Earth lighting cable should be used, as Live, Switched Live, Neutral, and Earth will all be wired in.

A:No. The wiring centre is an analogue on/off system, and would not be able to communicate with a digital signal directly. There are workarounds using gateways and then an OpenTherm or EMS thermostat, but the wiring centre would only control the boiler on/off switch.

A:This gives the valve actuators time to fully open so that the pump is not working against closed valves, and the boiler firing with no circulation.

A: Underplate is 3.0 kg/m².

A: You should allow 25-100mm gap between the plates as to avoid any rubbing or damage to the plate or pipe.

A:Yes, they can, but this is not advised. Thimble sensors are designed to be installed at around 1200-1500mm from the floor in order to give a better reading of the room temperature that users would feel.

A:Yes, they can be mounted in a faceplate, or simply fixed into the wall.

A:Yes, Ambiente sells thimble, button and floor sensors on the spares shop. Thermostats have inbuilt sensors, but remote sensors can be used for more accurate readings in larger rooms, or for monitoring the floor temp of more delicate materials (such as engineered wood).

A:Usually sensors will have a red (positive) and black (negative) wire. The polarity of how these are installed doesn’t matter for them to work, but it is conventional to wire the red wire into the terminal labelled AIR/FLR or (+), and then the black wire wired into the (–) terminal.

A:Not advised. If the thermostat is controlling the whole room on one zone, then the floor temp might need to be at a level that is too high for the wood and therefore trigger the floor sensor shutting off the system. This would mean that the wooden floor is safe, but the other covering would not be warm enough. Best practice would be to have two thermostats for each floor covering.